Sunrise and Frankenstein
We were told that St. John has about 3 days a year that are overcast all day. Yesterday was one of those days. It didn’t ruin anything but we were excited to see the sun shine and get to the beach. But first I did my usual early morning time alone as Linda slept in. First I spent time photographing the cottage and I found a secret area I had not explored. This is a little retreat area in back, secluded and peaceful. Great for reading, writing, or just daydreaming. Plus there is a very cool island mermaid mural to contemplate, who could ask for more!
The Secret Garden

The Mermaid Mural

Frankenstein’s Monster
Tracey’s Studio
First thing we did this morning was go visit Tracey Keating, the person who is the on-island host for the Island Cottage. She preps the cottage for each guest’s arrival, including supplying groceries, breakfast, and any other number of things for them if they want. It’s a pretty sweet deal to have her nearby. She also happens to know everything there is to know about where to go, what to look for, watch out for, and enjoy. She is also an artist/craftsman, specializing in leather goods. I wanted to see her workspace and she was kind enough to allow it.
Tracey’s Abode

Tracey’s Studio and Raised Bed Garden

Tracey at Her Work Bench

Work Bench with a View
She has a website as well where you can order items. Check it out at Awl Made Here.

Tracey Keating of Awl Made Here
A Clean Beach, Dirty Women and the Epic Salt Pond Suck Down
After our time with Tracey we finally made it to our first real Caribbean beach. Salt Pond Bay is a classic island beach; beautiful sand leading to bright blue waters in a curving protected bay. It was hot but there was a nice breeze and we found a picnic table in the shade to drop our stuff.
Salt Pond Bay

The Dirty Women in Bikinis

The Dirty Women Washing Off
So, two things happened that we did not expect from this mud bath. One, I got stuck. I walked in a bit farther than Linda did and got sucked down to just below my knee. That would have been fine but I had my sandals on and I could NOT for the life of me pull my legs out of the mud with them on. I was in quicksand and going down quick! I had to pull my feet out of the sandals, then reach down into the mud and pull the sandals up separately. It probably took 5 minutes but man, was it hard to do!
The second thing that happened was that the mud, while feeling good, also stripped off all our sunscreen. Oops. Linda and I didn’t get badly burnt but it definitely made a difference. You can see why in the photo below. I am as white as it comes!

The Dirty Couple

Washing Off and Floating Away

The Observers

Another Animal Floating
A Different World
We had been told that if we continued on the trail past the notorious Salt Pond we would come to Drunk Bay, which we just had to see. It is not a soft sandy beach in a protected cove, but an open rock and coral beach facing the Atlantic. It was as if in 1/4 mile we walked from the Caribbean to Maine. The waves were crashing, the wind was blowing and the water was dark. A pretty amazing transformation. It was much less colorful but much more textured.
But was even more astounding was the ‘Coral People’. Among all the rocks people had arranged coral and rocks to resemble people. Some included messages to loved ones, some just by themselves.
Linda made a romantic arrangement for us, then we made messages for our daughters. I was taking pics with my iPhone so we could post them right away and knowing daughter Connie is off the grid and never online I didn’t make one for her. I regret that now, I should have made it anyway. Hi Connie!
Finally, we debated if more men or women came to Drunk Bay because there were more Coral People with penises than boobs. I thought that meant more women came over since wouldn’t most men make their sculptures with breasts not penises? Linda thought the opposite because men are adolescent idiots and penises are funnier to put on a stone person than a breasts. She was not referring to me, I am sure. What do you think?
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Shipwreck Landing
The best meal of the entire trip was at a restaurant called ‘Shipwreck Landing’ on the road back from Salt Pond Bay. I love scallops, getting most any time I see them on the menu. The scallop dish I had here was probably the best I have ever had. The waitress said the secret was in making sure the scallops were very dry when you started the sear. I will try to remember that because it really paid off.

Shipwreck Landing
The waitress was willing to pose briefly for me so I could get her into the edge of my napkin I had been drawing. Turns out she had been working there 17 years, as had the bartender, after coming down to the islands and falling in love with the place.
Here is the napkin from our time at the restaurant.

Shipwreck Landing
The Spider
And finally, late at night, right as we were about to go to sleep, Linda discovered a monster.
If you ask her, it was BIG, if you ask me, it was just big. We found out later they are very common and are harmless. And no, they aren’t really pink.
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Part 1 – St. Thomas
Part 2 – The Island Cottage
Part 3 – Exploring Coral Bay
Part 4 – Clean Beaches and Dirty Pictures
Part 5 – Hiking Above, Snorkeling Below
Part 6 – Kayaks and Mermaids
Part 7 – The End – the Native and the Screamer
Tomorrow I hike, we snorkel, we continue to have great meals and we have an easy day of it.
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This is by far my favorite article of yours!!!! I love the mud pond, you getting stuck (typical), the coral people and messages, and of course the GIGANTIC spider 🙂 What a great way to spend your vacation, full of adventure and great memories!!! 🙂
The coral people were really very cool and eerie. I liked the dirty women in bikinis too, they were great sports and we got to talk to them and the husband of one of them for quite a while. They were from ‘Joisy’!